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The location of acne isn't always a coincidence. Acne maps can help guide treatment.
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Hana Hong
Hana Hong
Hana Hong is the beauty & fashion editor at RealSimple.com. She has been a writer and editor in the beauty and fashion industry for more than six years, sharing her expansive knowledge on skincare, hair care, makeup, fashion, and more. In addition to her broad network of beauty experts, she uses her family's background and training in skin science and cosmetic chemistry to differentiate between effective skincare formulations and marketing jargon.
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Updated on July 09, 2024
Medically reviewed by
Hadley King, MD
Medically reviewed byHadley King, MD
Hadley King, MD is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in medical andcosmeticdermatology.She is also a Clinical Instructor of Dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.Dr. King is a highly sought after dermatologist in New York City, where she has been treating patients for almost twenty years. She has wonnumerous awards including Castle Connolly Regional Top Doctor, Top Doctors New York Metro Area, New Beauty TopBeauty Doctor, and RealSelf Top Doctor.
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Got acne? Before you pop on some pimple patches, some blemishes can't simply be eliminated with a killer cleanser or spot treatment. These products help by targeting breakouts on a topical level, but not all pimples are due to oily skin and clogged pores. Acne in certain areas can indicate underlying health or lifestyle issues that will only clear up once the problem is resolved.
Face mapping is a practice that's been around for thousands of years, and many dermatologists still rely on it for diagnosing the best treatment (although it's not always accurate and it's certainly not the only way to diagnose acne). We asked a dermatologist about how face mapping works and what breakouts in certain spots may mean.
- Claire Chang, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City
What Is Acne Face Mapping?
If the eyes are the window to the soul, think of your face as a window to your health. "Acne face mapping splits the face into zones that correspond with specific medical or lifestyle triggers," says dermatologist Claire Chang, MD.
"It stems from ancient Eastern medicine, suggesting that a person's skin may be a reflection of their inner health. Bodily imbalance was thought to trigger breakouts in the skin, with specific areas of the face representing specific organs," says Chang "In recent times, modern face mapping has evolved to include more scientific and evidence-based causes of acne breakouts."
Intrigued? Us, too. However, you should take the practice with a grain of salt. According to Chang, face mapping may help pinpoint possible triggers, but it is nowhere near a universal rule that works for everyone.
"Face mapping can be used as one tool in our toolbox in diagnosing and treating acne but should not be considered foolproof. Rather, we need to take the patient as a whole into consideration. Genetics, hormones, diet, lifestyle, and environmental triggers also play a key role."
There are six main sections within an acne face map. This includes the forehead, temples, cheeks, chin/jawline, hairline, and nose. The T-zone (the forehead, nose, and chin areas of the face) is a common breakout zone on the face due to higher oil production and clogged pores. However, you can break out anywhere on the face, from your forehead to your chin and cheeks.
If you do find your breakouts always appearing on the exact same spot on your face, we've put together the most modern acne map guide by merging the best of Eastern medicine with dermatologist-confirmed statistics.
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Forehead
"In Chinese medicine, the forehead is linked to the digestive system," says Chang. "Breakouts in the forehead region [are] said to represent digestive imbalances, like poor diet, improper digestion, or irritable bowel syndrome." To help flush out toxins and aid digestion, swap caffeinated and overly processed drinks with some H2O.
If you have bangs or naturally oily hair, you may also want to avoid thick hair oils and wash your hair more frequently. According to Chang, dirty hair could exacerbate the sweat and oil clogging the pores, thus worsening acne breakouts on the forehead. Wearing caps or hats that cover your head can also trap bacteria in the area, triggering breakouts.
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Temples
According to ancient Chinese mapping, the temples correspond to the kidneys and bladder. Infections or inflammation in these areas can present themselves as acne, so you'll want to watch your alcohol consumption. If you still find your temples flaring up, consult a doctor to see if it requires more intensive treatment.
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Cheeks
Acne near the tops of the cheeks is linked to the respiratory system according to ancient Chinese mapping, so if you are frequently walking in cities or driving with your windows open, you'll want to take extra care cleansing your face. Try employing an air purifier or some air-purifying plants in your home.
On the other hand, Chang notes you may also want to look at possible environmental triggers in your lifestyle, including dirty pillowcases, bed sheets, and cell phone cases. Lots of things come into contact with your cheeks every day, so cleaning the items around you can help reduce new pimples from cropping up.
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Chin/Jawline
Chin acne indicates the biggest blemish instigator we know all too well: hormonal imbalance. According to Chang: "Hormonal acne tends to occur cyclically, worse with menstrual periods and menopause due to higher relative levels of androgen over estrogen. Excess androgens stimulate more oil production in the skin, leading to clogged pores and breakouts."
Try your best to maintain a regular sleep schedule and healthy diet to assuage capricious hormones, but if you continue experiencing chin acne, you may want to consult your dermatologist and gynecologist and see if birth control or spironolactone could help.
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Hairline
Acne on the hairline suggests that hair or skin care products are a trigger, says Chang. Hairline acne can sometimes be called "pomade acne." Pomades are thick, oil-based products that clog the pores and cause acne breakouts.
If you find most of your pimples clustered around the rim of your head, it's best to stop using oil-based hair products and switch to non-comedogenic alternatives, including shampoos and conditioners.
We recommend fragrance-free haircare lines developed by dermatologists that are free of anything that could clog pores—like sulfates, silicones, phthalates, parabens, dye, or gluten.
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Nose
Ah, the pesky nose zit. There are more oil glands on your nose than the rest of the face, which makes this area most prone to breakouts. In Chinese face mapping, nose acne has also been linked to the liver and kidney, so it may be worth double-checking with your doctor to see if you have high blood pressure or liver dysfunction.
Make sure to cleanse thoroughly and use skincare that works to unclog pores. Try a topical retinoid, which helps normalize skin cell turnover and reduce inflammation. It's also a good idea to use witch hazel, which has natural anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and oil-reducing properties, after cleansing your face.
Treating and Preventing Face Acne
Acne can feel frustrating, especially if it is recurring in the same spots. However, with consistent care and the right approach, you can more effectively treat breakouts and prevent them from coming back. Of course, the first step is to understand the root cause of the acne to treat it accordingly, but here are some general tips for managing acne of any kind.
- Cleanse. Wash your face daily (day and night are preferable) with a mild cleanser to remove any excess oil, dirt, makeup, and bacteria buildup without irritating the skin.
- Moisturize. Use a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated. Choose a light moisturizer that won't clog the pores.
- Exfoliate. Exfoliating a few times per week can help remove dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores. It's important to avoid over-exfoliating.
- Avoid touching your face. Keep your hands off your face (and especially avoid picking with dirty fingernails!). Touching your face can transfer oils and bacteria from your hands to your face, which can cause breakouts.
- Stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water to help your skin stay healthy and clear. Water is important for clearing the skin and keeping it well moisturized from the inside out.
- Eat a nutritional diet. Eat a diet that can help keep your skin healthy. This means avoiding high-sugar and high-fat foods that can trigger breakouts.
- Manage stress. Practice stress-reducing activities like yoga, meditation, or exercise, which can help keep breakouts at bay. Stress is a major cause of some breakouts.
- Use acne treatments. Apply over-the-counter acne treatments like ointments, lotions, oil-based cleansers, and other products that contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or alpha hydroxy acids.
- Seek professional help. Consult a dermatologist if you experience persistent or severe acne. An expert can create a personalized treatment plan for you, which may include prescription products.
Exfoliating the skin removes dead skin skills and buildup on the skin and in the pores. But over-exfoliating or using an exfoliator that's too rough on the skin can do more harm than good. Over-exfoliating won't allow your skin enough time to replenish between treatments, and a harsh exfoliator can cause irritation and damage to healthy skin cells.
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